art by Arielle Adkin
How did you come up with the concept for Radish Underground and team up with Celeste and what is the stores mission?
Owners Celestial Sipes and Gina J. Morris grew up dancing together in the Northwest Ballet Co. in Montana and have been friends ever since. The daughters of two artists, a dancer and a musician (respectfully), they share a passion for craftsmanship and community. Together they had a vision to create a space where artists could network with one another, and the customer could experience this kind of passion and quality first hand. Our Mission Statement: To provide artists and artisans with a retail boutique/gallery space to showcase their work, grow their businesses, and network within the Portland Arts Community, and to give guests the opportunity to enjoy this work in a comfortable, inviting atmosphere.
How would you describe the style of clothing that one can expect to find at Radish?
Conscientiously made garments with style and purpose. Unique, timeless, interesting, well made garments by up and coming designers with a finger on the pulse of Portland fashion, as well as funky one-of-a-kind designer work not found anywhere else. We carry a wide range of styles, sizes, price points, and aesthetics to encapsulate the variety of independent design talent in the Northwest and around the world. You'll find something for work or play, chic dresses for a night on the town, stunning jackets for every season, and even the worlds most comfortable underwear; Thundies (the comfy, stylee, undies, that won't go up your bum - handmade in New Zealand and carried exclusively in the US by Radish Underground).
You work a lot with Designers that repurpose clothing. How do you find them and is this a viable business concept for the future?
We both actively seek out and are constantly being introduced to new lines, and we see sustainability (in all forms) as a major plus to any business concept. Repurposed clothing is an incredible example of taking into consideration the footprint of manufacturing fabric and the existence of a plethora of garments ready to be tossed in a landfill, and finding a way to reconstruct this "raw" material into chic, green, and wonderful clothing. There is a definitely art to working with multiple fabrics in one garment, the skill of both the designer and the seamstress is put to the test. Examples of some of the most well executed designs come from preloved in Toronto, and also T. Lee Bags here in Portland (repurposing old leather jackets into fantastic one of a kind bags), and we'll continue to give feedback to smaller lines that are repurposing clothing to help them grow this aspect of their line into a sustainable niche.
This is your second year how do you like it at the new location and how has the neighborhood accepted you?
We had our eye on the West End for well over two years before we finally signed a lease. In fact we based a major portion of our business plan demographics and traffic estimations on data from SW 10th & Washington. After talking with other business owners around town, specifically stores that had moved from more popular locations (English Dept, for example, formerly on NW 23rd) we decided that we preferred the pace of this up-and-coming neighborhood, and it's independent vibe.
It was a major incentive for us to be able to get into a location that is just blossoming on the scene so that we could be influential in it's development, and to start a business in a newer destination location allowed for a slightly lower overhead to help ease the financial burden of the first few years (as opposed to the astronomical rent in the Pearl District for example).
This particular space was not even on our radar, we had actually been scoping what became Narcisse on SW Washington. Over the course of writing the business plan Covet and Frances May both moved in and we knew our instincts had been right. Being that the area is within walking distance of 11 hotels, plus the higher traffic on 10th as well as the Street Car stop directly in front of our store sealed the deal. We could not be more thrilled with the decision! I'd say more than just getting in with the neighborhood - we're helping to define what is THE West End of Portland for all future shoppers, focusing on locally owned and independently minded commerce.
Who is your primary customer and how do you reach out?
In truth, we have a very broad range of customers, but they all share a passion for supporting artisans creating conscientiously made clothing and accessories. Our target market falls into two major categories: 1) women between the ages of 25-45 who live or work in the area (looking to buy locally and/or fill out their closets with the unique, well-made, interesting work you can't usually find in mainstream fashion), and 2) the tourist of the same demographic (usually looking for Portland specific lines or to be introduced to new independent lines).
Excellent guest experience lends itself to both repeat business and word of mouth praise - both of which are essential. Our window displays are a big part of setting us apart and attracting foot traffic - our ever changing selection of well made, fashionable wearable merchandise appeals to most people, even it they don't buy anything until their 3rd or 4th time in - or if it isn't a fit for them they almost always know someone that would love the store and send them our way. We are just being ourselves and sharing what we love with the world - it seems to be working very well so far :)
How was it participating in Portland’s Fashions Night Out and the PDX Collective at the Cleaners?
FNO was a wonderful opportunity for us, and especially exciting as we were the only store to focus on an independent + local designer: Lindsey Reif. We sent two looks down the runway (with accessories by other local artists, J. Calderon, Sahlia Michelle, and shoes borrowed from local store JET), and were one of only three small businesses participating in Portland - with the likes of big whigs like Nordstroms and Macy's. We're thrilled that the movers and shakers of the fashion world are recognizing the potential in our fair city and can't wait to keep growing the awareness of the talent in our region through events such as this. We are also always happy to participate in PDX Collective sales... this being our 3rd event of the same name.
I think it's an outstanding way to move through major markdowns with like minded boutiques of the same quality and price point - it creates buzz around the event itself and does not devalue the garments individually as conventional 'sales' can sometimes do. These garments are worth every penny they are marked at to start - and having these rare and highly anticipated collective sales helps keep that value intact while treating our guests to an outstanding opportunity to snag a deal, support local businesses, and support independent designers all in one fell swoop.
What is the future of Portland as a city for fashion and what would you like to see the city of Portland do to help creative enterprises like yours?
Portland has a great independent fashion scene. It's very supported as far as fashion events go, and our designers self-produce very impressive shows. I think the quality just gets better and better. The creativity here has been really strong for a number of years, but the quality of the construction has lagged behind a little. Every season we're seeing improvements.
One of the problems with the Portland fashion scene is that we just don't have consistent high quality manufacturing here. Everyone would benefit from a mid-sized manufacturing facility. The other problem is the disconnect between Portlanders supporting fashion by going to fashion shows and events, and actually buying local designers' merchandise.
Because Portland doesn't have any mid-sized manufacturing, it's very expensive to have garments made here, which makes local fashion a little expensive for the Portland market. We do see a lot of people from Seattle and San Francisco buying local lines. I think there is a two-fold reason for this: 1) Portland fashion really speaks to those two markets, and 2) people from those cities are accustom to spending more on local goods.
I love your window installations what’s the idea behind it?
Thank you! A big part of my job as merchandiser at lululemon athletica in the Pearl was the monthly window display - and I got totally hooked. Both Celeste and I are very creative people and we share in the formation of each month's idea - and then I generally handle the execution.
We have a flair for the theatrical, plenty of stage craft experience, and we treat each window like it is its own little story... sometimes we have to stop and ask ourselves if any actual garments/products are being represented (it's easy to get carried away with a theme :)).
For the most part we just want to create a little pocket of wonder that makes people stop, take notice, and hopefully brightens their day. Attempting to make this kind of impact on a community is far more effective, way more our style, and a heck of a lot more fun than traditional advertising.
You are also showing Art in the store. What is your taste and who is your current artist?
Our taste is incredibly eclectic, and our process for choosing are is actually more based on the collective aesthetic vibe our store has in conjunction with the featured clothing designers for that two month period. Each month we feature a local clothing designer and jewelry artist in addition to the visual art that is up in the space for two months at a time. The visual art changes every two months, while the designers change monthly. Because of this rotating system, we generally chose our clothing designers first, then go back to our records for visual art and find the best matches.
Our current artist is Arielle Adkin, with a show entitled "Risk and Carnivorous Plants".
You are also a dancer, which project have you been involved with and how do you balance it?
I am currently performing in a production of 'Sweet Charity' for the Lakewood Theatre Co. which I co-choreographed with Amy Beth Frankel, and this is the first opportunity I've had to get back on stage since the opening of our store! Actually, since my semi-retirement and move to Portland in 2005, I've done a handful of projects, but my big return to the stage has definitely been the current show.
Balancing has everything to do with timing, an incredibly supportive business partner, and a wonderful new PT employee. I've found that even though I'm working many more hours in a week, I'm totally rejuvenated when I leave for the theatre as my passion is truly rooted in the arts. Forming a business around supporting other artists and artisans as a way to sustain our own living stems directly from this passion and has worked it's way around full circle now that I'm able to give back to my own creative outlet.
Ideally I'd love to be able to perform at least once a year on going... as I think about my own future, I simply can't imagine not raising my children in the theatre!
Here is my current bio for other reference: Gina Johnson Morris was a principal with the Northwest Ballet Company before earning a BA in Dance at Loyola Marymount University ('03). While in LA, Gina was a principal dancer and the Asst. Artistic Director of the contemporary ballet company, Meh-Tropolis Dance Theatre. Favorite roles include The Lilac Fairy in The Sleeping Beauty, and the title role of Giselle in 'Elle. She also received a Del Rey Players award for Best Choreography of Little Shop of Horrors, in which she played Ronette.
Since moving to Portland in 2005 Gina has taught for the YPTP, performed arial work suspended from giant trees, and opened an independent boutique and gallery to support other artists and artisans called Radish Underground.
Celeste has her own design line can you tell me about it?
Aster Park uses reclaimed fabric (the ultimate in 'green' material) and is handmade right here in Portland. It all began when her grandmother (one in a family line of seamstresses that inspired Celeste to begin sewing in the first place) discovered an entire fabric store that had been boarded up for 30 or so years and a landlord looking to move the property and sell the lot of it. With hundreds of bolts of new-old fabric waiting to become brilliant garments - AP has an affinity for the versatile and always has at least one reversible garment a season. Because the fabric used is reclaimed, there is only so much of a particular color or pattern, so each design is unique and totally rad (or Rad-ish, if you will).
What events can we expect next from Radish Underground?
Well, our 2 year anniversary is right around the corner (Oct 20th to be exact) - and we're in discussions about the first Radish Underground fashion show sometime in the next year... plus all of the fun reasons we can think of to throw a party between now and then!
Where do you see Radish Underground 5 years from now?
Our 5 year plan includes expansion to a second and possibly third location in handpicked cities across the US - with slightly further into the future plans to make a splash across the pond as well. We're also considering the need for an exclusively men's version of our shop, something that is most definitely missing in Portland and only a matter of time before we can successfully figure a way to create the missing link :)
Gina J. Morris
Owner/Manager
RADISH UNDERGROUND
Independent Fashion + Art
West End-PDX
414 SW 10th Avenue
Portland, OR 97205
503.928.6435
info@radishunderground.com
twitter: RadishPDX
facebook: Radish Underground
thanks
Gina for a great interview
www.radishunderground.com
